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Wushu Weapon manual by Oscar Reyes
Jun 28, paul rated it really liked it. Filled with philosophical and eastern concepts, this story is humane, funny, touching and exciting. This series deserves to be wider read! John Hines rated it it was amazing Jan 21, HaloLove rated it it was amazing Feb 28, Pick two folded pieces of wet abrasive paper, one on each hand, held between the thumb and index, and round both edges at the same time. Let your fingers meet at the flat of the tip, reshaping it to an eye-shaped section.
Avoid grinding off the tip edges. Turn the sword every few strokes, since in general both hands won't deliver the same pressure. Do not proceed through big steps. Stop when the point is not yet fully shaped, polish with progressively finer grained wet abrasive paper, and then judge your work. The examination of the light reflecting in the shaped point is the best way to appreciate the symmetry of its grinding. It may take you sometime to learn how to take the point grind to perfection. At first, get a tolerable shaped point that is harmless to other practitioners and yourself.
On each session of point grinding, search for remaining live edges, and kill them with fine grain wet paper. Just watching from one end, or using as a ruler a straight table or door edge, verify if the tang is in line with the central ridge of the blade.
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Most of the time it will be the case Figure 9B ; four out of four of my CTS blades were not an exception to the rule. If not in alignment, examine carefully the tang to see whether if it doesn't insert off center in the blade. A perfectly straight tang inside a handle's perforation that is off-center may produce an assembled weapon that looks misaligned. If this is the case, the handle might be re-centered by filing at the proper place with a round, and elongated wooden rasp.
Always confirm your alignment by reassembling the sword.
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If the tang is misaligned, find at which point is bent off line. Heat the tang bent in the flame of a portable Bunsen burner, or on a gas range Figure 9. Once reassembled, the blade root may not fit snuggly within the groove in the guard's lid. This most likely is due to lack of alignment of the blade root surfaces that should be in contact with the aforementioned groove.
Use a metal file, a coarse grindstone, or wet abrasive paper, mill off the faulty sword root surface to obtain a proper adjustment. For obtaining an even root blade the safer way is to grind off the material and avoid the use of hacksaws and abrasive cutting wheel, unless you have an exceptionally well-equipped shop. Figures 10 , 11 , 12 , 13 , The choice of the material used for ballast is conditioned by density of the material, that is the weight for volume unit.
The hollow parts of the hilt of an exercise wushu sword kit guard, pommel, and cavity between the handle and tang must be filled with a very dense metal or alloy, to compensate for their low weight. Lead, Lead sales to the public are forbidden in many countries, since if misused is toxic. If you have access to a good chunk of lead, do not hesitate to use it; lead weighs made with protective gloves, covered by a coat of metal varnish or epoxy glue, and in addition protected by the hilt's fittings themselves, are inoffensive to the sword user.
A little harder and less malleable, still can be shaped in the same way than lead. If you have some previous experience casting bullets or fishing weights, you may decide to cast your own ballast at the desired final shape. The alloy melts at lower temperature than lead, which reduces the danger inherent to its utilization. In this project the more useful shapes are pierced metal disks, or sheets of metal from which the ballast pieces are cut. The Figure 15 takes you through the steps needed to make a plaster "plaster of Paris" mould for casting weighs.
The wire form, usually with an incorporated cleaner, should be avoided be used for casting, since the cleaner vaporization at the fusion temperature may produce potentially dangerous molten metal projections. Use thick clothes, shoes and goggles. Melt the alloy in a small solid iron or steel ladle.
Never overheat the molten metal. Everything is just right when some non-molten fragments still remain in the molten metal. If you do not have experience on this, you may try a small scale test run to get the feeling of the material, and loose your natural fear to it. In order to obtain the desired sword balance, this kind of ballast must be carefully packed, as to achieve the best possible utilization of the limited space available within the hilt's components.
Though expensive, fishing weighs are a good alternative source for more compact ballast. Hence I'll stress in this Manual the utilization of the wire form of tin-lead soldier adjuvant, which can be obtained everywhere, and is safe and easier to use; this should be your ballast of choice if this is the first time you attempt to condition a wushu weapon. Examine how the wooden handle is articulated to the guard.
In the CTS "Yue" sword pattern the handle just repose in the guard's neck, and the solidity of the sword arrangement is determined only by the close fit of the tang to the inside of the handle, and the accurate lodging of the blade root into the guard's lid; thus the tapered part of the handle -its last 5 mm- can be sawn off, using a fine-toothed ribbed saw, in order to liberate room for more ballast Figure: disassembled "Yue" sword hilt.
In some designs the handle prolongs through the guard to rest in a secondary neck cast inside, and as part, of the lid; in these cases, the original disposition should be respected. Secure stably on a vice wrapped in a cloth to avoid scratches and breaking the fragile bronze case , or on a chunk of modeling putty Figure 16A.
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Pack to a close fit within the guard's case lateral projections. Avoid to fill the cylindrical part of the cavity determined by the end of the guard's neck, handle and lid, which will be filled later by a wire coils Figure 16B ; otherwise try to pack the ballast without leaving empty space.
A similar strategy should be extended to ballast the CTS "Qin" sword kit pommel, whose outline is similar to that of the "Yue"'s guard. When you use this approach, check that the lid still can be put in place before and after consolidating the ballast. Once satisfied, thoroughly mix a small quantity of quick setting epoxy filling paste, and distribute it over the packed ballast. Press as to force the paste to infiltrate among the ballast bits, and against the cavity walls. The purpose of this is to secure the ballast, to avoid it to rattle when using the weapon.
Remove the epoxy putty stains from the guard, and from your fingers with a Q-tip, cloth or absorbing paper just dampened in alcohol. Do not use an excess of alcohol, which if mixed to the epoxy will prevent a good hardening. Once the putty is hardened, proceed similarly with the other guard lateral projection. Construct these weighs. At this stage is assumed that the sword's guard lateral projections are full to capacity with consolidated ballast. You also dispose of consolidated weighs that fit tightly to the cylindrical cavities in the guard a pommel.
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The size of the coil should allow for the insertion of the guard's lid, were the blade root rests, and for the projection of the handle inside the whole guard's neck. Clean the eventual glue excess. Once the glue is set, add -without gluing- additional shims as to fill most of the space still left inside the guard. Mix a small quantity of quick setting epoxy glue spread around the edges, glue the lid in place, wait for the glue to set, and clean the eventual glue excess.
Reassemble the sword in order to examine if the handle still enters correctly in the guard's neck, and if the weapon is still aligned. Grind in the blade root top to expose a fresh metal surface. Verify once more that its adjustment of the blade lid is nearly perfect.